腰片炒枯則木，炒嫩則令人生疑；不如煨爛，沾椒鹽食之為佳。或加作料亦可。只宜手摘，不宜刀切。但須一日工夫，才得如泥耳。此物只宜獨用，斷不可攙入別菜中，最能奪味而惹腥。煨三刻則老，煨一日則嫩。
When kidney slices are fried too dry, they taste like wood. When they are too tender, people suspect [the kidney is not properly cooked]. It is better to simmer them until tender and eat them with peppercorn salt. Other seasonings can also be added. [The kidney prepared this way] is only suitable for finger food, not to be cut with a knife. Just [note] that it takes a day to make [the kidney tender] like mash. The kidney can only be used alone [as the main ingredient]. Never mix it into other dishes: it will definitely overpower other flavours and spoil the whole dish with its meaty stink. It is tough after simmering for about three quarters of an hour and becomes tender after a day.
* From Yuan Mei 袁枚 (1716-1798), Suiyuan shidan 隨園食單 2.3a-3b: https://c.cnkgraph.com/eBooks/%e5%9b%9b%e5%ba%ab%e4%b9%8b%e5%a4%96/%e9%9a%a8%e5%9c%92%e9%a3%9f%e5%96%ae%20%e6%b8%85%20%e8%a2%81%e6%9e%9a%e6%92%b0/%e4%b8%80.pdf
Illustrations of a pair of kidneys from a metaphysical perspective (left) and the God of the Kidney (right) from Sancai tuhui 三才圖會, edited by Wang Qi 王圻 (1530-1615) and Wang Siyi 王思義 (fl. 17th century)
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